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Bite-Size Blog Post #61 - Birch Tor, Dartmoor National Park

A return to Birch Tor turned into a battle with the rain, hail and snow but it was strong winds that killed my video. But I was still left with a photograph that made it all worth the effort.

Just recently on this blog I wrote about photographing Birch Tor for the first time, and how despite all my years exploring Dartmoor I had somehow overlooked this gem of a location. Not only is it a fantastic place to photograph, it also felt like the perfect setting for a YouTube video to share how I approach working somewhere new on Dartmoor.

It has been a while since I last published a Dartmoor photography video, so Birch Tor felt like the right place to start again. One of the main reasons for the gap has been the weather, but this time I was determined to get out and film regardless of the forecast.

It was not the light that concerned me. The cloud cover looked promising. What I failed to pay proper attention to was the wind. Arriving at Birch Tor, I was quickly reminded that wind speed and direction matter just as much as the clouds overhead.

Rain, snow, and hail all swept through within fifteen minutes, which I could handle. The wind was another matter entirely. It was relentless, cutting straight through me and making filming far more difficult than expected. Still, I was determined to continue.

Filming in those conditions comes with its own challenges. Even with protection on the microphone, I suspected the audio would struggle. I told myself it would be something I could fix later.

It was not.

I am no audio expert, but no amount of editing, filtering, or enhancement could rescue it. In the end, the footage had to be set aside.

Even so, I came away with what mattered most, the photograph itself. It is not too different from the composition I shared in my previous post, but that is no bad thing. Returning to a similar idea can often lead to something more refined.

Birch Tor, Dartmoor National Park, Devon - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 20mm, f/13, 1/15th at ISO 64.

As for the video, the idea still feels right. When the conditions and timing come together, I will be back to try again.

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Discovering Dartmoor - Birch Tor

A training walk in thick fog leads to an unexpected discovery on Dartmoor. Birch Tor may not be the grandest tor, but its quiet character and rocky outcrops reveal surprising photographic potential.

Wandering Around in the Fog

I have been photographing Dartmoor for more than 15 years and during that time I have visited many of its most iconic tors and locations. Some of them I have photographed countless times, and for good reason. Others I have only photographed once or twice, also for good reason. While I have not photographed every significant tor on Dartmoor, there are more than 160 of them after all, I do feel that I have explored many of the best.

So imagine my surprise when, while out on a training walk for my Hill and Moorland Leader qualification, I came across a tor for the first time and it genuinely excited me.

I say came across because when I found Birch Tor it was hidden in thick fog.

I had been walking in the fog for a couple of hours, practising my map and navigation skills, when I decided to navigate to Birch Tor. I had never visited it before and the only reason I chose it was because it was somewhere unfamiliar that would test my navigation.

When I arrived, and I was quietly pleased that I had nailed the navigation, I could immediately see the potential of the location even in the mist. Birch Tor is not one of Dartmoor’s grandest tors, but it has a scattering of smaller rocky outcrops that I knew would photograph beautifully in the right conditions.

Birch Tor, Dartmoor National Park, Devon - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 16mm, f/13, 1/50 sec at ISO 400.

Out of the Fog and Into the Sun

Excited by this unexpected discovery, I returned a few days later in clearer conditions to see what Birch Tor really had to offer.

What I found genuinely surprised me.

Of course the good conditions helped, but I quickly discovered several compositions that suited my style of landscape photography perfectly. Rocky outcrops catching the light, gentle shapes and lines in the land, undulating ground leading towards distant hills, and wide Dartmoor skies. It is also perfect for my favourite orientation, vertical.

I had to work quickly as the sun was setting behind a large bank of cloud. With time against me I left the tripod in the bag and photographed everything handheld. That meant faster shutter speeds, a higher ISO, and image stabilisation switched on, but nothing the Nikon Z8 could not handle.

I am really excited about this location and I can already see plenty of potential here, especially as the seasons change.

I am planning to produce a video about Birch Tor so you can see the location the way I experienced it.

And while I am mentioning videos, apologies for the lack of on location videos recently. Winter has thrown a few challenges my way which have made filming difficult, but I will be back out on the moor with the camera very soon.

In the meantime, I hope you enjoy these first photographs from Birch Tor.

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Breathtaking Views from Yes Tor - Dartmoor National Park

A risky winter sunrise trip onto Dartmoor led me through thick cloud to the summit of Yes Tor, where brief, breathtaking glimpses above the cloud made the view unforgettable.

Top of the World

The weather here in the UK this winter has been miserable and has made my life as a landscape photographer a bit of a challenge! The longer the bad weather continued, the more risks I was willing to take on a weather forecast that would normally have me hitting the snooze button.

After what had seemed like weeks since I’d been out and captured a good photograph, I decided that the following morning’s weather forecast was worth a punt. Yes, there was lots of low-level cloud forecast, but the base of that cloud was very low (foggy) and there was no medium-level cloud forecast. Should I take a risk and see if I could get above it?

Getting above cloud on Dartmoor is tricky. Even its highest points are only around 600m above sea level, so the cloud level has to be very low and not too thick. Looking at my map, I decided to get up early and head to West Mill Tor. At 541m above sea level, it was a good balance between walking effort and the opportunity to get above the cloud.

Leaving Exeter, it was remarkably clear, but as I approached Okehampton, things got a little foggier. By the time I got to the parking area for West Mill Tor, I really didn’t hold out much hope.

As I stood on West Mill Tor questioning my life choices, I thought about whether it would be worth making the decision to continue my walk up to Yes Tor. At 619m it’s Dartmoor’s highest tor (if you don’t count High Willhays at 621m), so if there was any daylight to be found it would be there.

Was it worth the extra effort to get to Yes Tor? Well, yes and no. No in the sense that I never truly got out of the clouds and the photographs you see below are as clear as it got (but it was just enough to get a little light on the tor). But it wasn’t the photograph that made it worth the effort — it was the view. But Julian! You said it wasn’t clear? True, but there are times when even if you can’t make a great photograph, what you see can still take your breath away.

A Foggy Sunrise on Yes Tor #1, Dartmoor National Park, Devon - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 14mm, f/13, 1/50 sec at ISO 800.

The wind was blowing hard on the summit of Yes Tor, so the cloud was moving quickly. Every now and again you would get a tantalising glimpse of the surrounding view. Not only would I see the beautiful orange glow of the rising sun, but I would also see the top of the cloud bank that was covering the landscape. I couldn’t see any land, just cloud, and it looked spectacular. If only I had been a few metres higher, I probably would have had a constant view of the area.

It was like standing on top of a mountain looking down on a temperature inversion. It took my breath away. But the glimpses were brief and infrequent, so rather than desperately trying to make a photograph, I just stood there, freezing in the wind, waiting for a light break in the cloud. It was magical! I’d never seen anything like it on Dartmoor before and, given the set of circumstances where the base of the cloud is low enough but the height of the cloud is lower than Dartmoor’s highest point, I might never again.

It’s hard to convey what I was seeing and pictures don’t do it justice, but hopefully the small video clip will give you an impression of what it was like.

I’m glad I took the risk to go out, and then take a further risk to get myself up to Yes Tor, because sometimes the best things come to those who take a risk. Let me know in the comments below if you’ve had a similar experience.

A Foggy Sunrise on Yes Tor #2, Dartmoor National Park, Devon - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 14mm, f/13, 1/160 sec at ISO 800.

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Bite-Size Blog Post #59 - Greator Rocks and Hound Tor - Dartmoor National Park

Revisiting Greator Rocks reminded me that some locations take time to reveal their potential, before finishing the walk at Hound Tor, a striking Dartmoor landmark perfect for studying light, shape and contrast.

Greator Rocks

For me, Greator Rocks is an odd location. Visually it’s striking and it stands out from the landscape, but I find it difficult to photograph. However, sometimes I need to remind myself to be patient and not write locations off after just one or two visits. So when I was in the area last weekend, I decided to give it another try.

The more I photograph it, the more I believe it has potential, and that the judgement I made on the first few visits was a bit premature. The composition below is one that I want to work on when spring comes around. It’s not just the clear blue sky in this shot that doesn’t appeal to me, but also the ground, which is messy with winter bracken. In spring, and with some morning light, I believe this is a composition that has some potential. Roll on spring!! It can’t come soon enough… I’m more than ready for winter to be over now!

Greator Rocks, Dartmoor National Park, Devon - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 20mm, f/13, 1/30 sec at ISO 800.

Hound Tor

One of the easiest routes to Greator Rocks is to walk via Hound Tor, one of Dartmoor’s most popular tors. So, while walking back from Greator Rocks, it was hard not to stop and get the camera out. The sun was well and truly up by the time I got there, so I was already thinking in black and white before I took the first photograph.

I find it a challenging location, despite its size and grandeur, but it provides lots of scope for training your compositional eye to look for shape, light, shadow and contrast.

Have you photographed Greator Rocks or Hound Tor before? Let me know what you think of these locations in the comments below.

A Foggy Sunrise on Yes Tor #1, Dartmoor National Park, Devon - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S at 32mm, f/13, 1/125 sec at ISO 800.

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Bite-Size Blog Post #58 - Great Mis Tor - Dartmoor National Park

A spontaneous visit to Great Mis Tor gave me the chance to explore this location once again. Sometimes the best preparation comes when there is no pressure to capture the perfect shot.

Skilling Up on Dartmoor

I have spent a great deal of time walking across Dartmoor searching for its best locations and, more importantly, learning the right time to photograph them. This knowledge is vital for my one to one clients and workshop groups, who expect me to guide them to the right place at the right time.

They also expect me to do this safely. While many of the locations I use are not far from the road, some clients, particularly those on one to one sessions, want to venture further into the wilderness of Dartmoor. For that, I need to know exactly where I am and how to move confidently through the landscape. I am comfortable using a map, but that does not mean I should stop improving my navigation skills.

To build on my experience, I recently completed the National Navigation Award Scheme Silver Award course on Dartmoor. I loved every minute of it. Although I will rarely need some of the more advanced skills when working with clients, I firmly believe it is better to be over skilled than under prepared.

Putting New Skills Into Practice

At the end of the second and final day of training, I found myself on the western edge of Dartmoor with about ninety minutes to spare before sunset. As always, I had packed my camera gear in the car just in case an opportunity presented itself. The only question was where to go.

One location I had not photographed for a long time was Great Mis Tor. Despite walking nearly ten kilometres during the day’s navigation training, I picked up my bag and made the steady climb.

Great Mis Tor, Dartmoor National Park - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 20mm, f/13, 1/8 sec at ISO 64.

Returning to Great Mis Tor

With blue skies overhead and hazy cloud sitting low on the horizon, conditions were far from dramatic. It was never going to produce a portfolio image, and that was perfectly fine. Without the pressure of chasing exceptional light, I was free to explore, study the formations, and consider stronger compositions for the future.

There will definitely be a next time. I am not sure why it has taken me so long to return to Great Mis Tor. It is a remarkable location with enormous photographic potential. I am already looking forward to going back, and I certainly will not wait for another navigation course as an excuse.

Great Mis Tor, Dartmoor National Park - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 24mm, f/13, 1/4 sec at ISO 64.

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Dartmoor Photography at Rippon Tor: Light, Landscape and Connection

A personal insight into why this iconic tor remains one of my favourite locations for Dartmoor landscape photography and workshops.

Being Connected

This year, 2026, I am committed to continuing to deepen my connection with Dartmoor. From discovering more about its history and geology, to photographing new places or returning to familiar ones in different conditions, my aim is simple. As I said in my Discovering Dartmoor series, learning about Dartmoor is not something to be completed, but a lifelong journey.

Exploration is one aspect of that journey, but just as important is familiarity and experience. This is especially important when I am leading workshops or guiding someone in one to one tuition.

Rippon Tor Sunrise #1, Dartmoor National Park - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 19mm, f/13, 0.8 secs at ISO 64.

Why I Keep Returning to Rippon Tor

One of my favourite locations to take people is Rippon Tor. If you have been reading this blog for a while, you will know I photograph Rippon Tor regularly, but why?

There are a couple of reasons. Firstly, as a location it is a great place to teach people how to approach the photography of Dartmoor’s tors. With scattered rocks, interesting formations and panoramic views, there is a great deal to work with. Aside from being a strong teaching location, it is simply a wonderful place to photograph.

Located on the eastern edge of Dartmoor, with clear views down to the coast, there are few better places to watch the start of a new day. It is those clear views to the coast that make it a firm favourite for me, because if you are going to catch light from the rising sun anywhere, you are likely to catch it on Rippon Tor.

Rippon Tor Sunrise #2, Dartmoor National Park - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 23mm, f/13, 0.8 secs at ISO 64.

When the Light Transforms the Landscape

That light can transform the scene right in front of your eyes. One minute the tors look grey and flat. Then, as soon as the sun peeks its head over the horizon, or more likely over a bank of cloud, those solid lumps of granite are transformed into wondrous monuments of Dartmoor’s geological history.

I love watching the light move across the landscape, creating areas of brightness and shadow, contrast and colour. Sometimes it lasts only a few minutes, but in that time I feel completely connected to the landscape. My camera becomes an extension of me. I am not fiddling with settings or worrying about gear. I am simply watching the scene unfold and change around me, capturing photographs when I feel inspired.

It is a truly magical experience. Even if it only lasts two minutes and my hands are frozen from the constant wind that sweeps across Rippon Tor, I head home knowing I have experienced something that few other people ever will. And if you would like to experience mornings like this for yourself, I would be delighted to welcome you along on a future Dartmoor workshop.

Rippon Tor Sunrise #3, Dartmoor National Park - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 27mm, f/13, 0.8 secs at ISO 64.

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Photographing Great Staple Tor - Dartmoor National Park

Remembering Alyn Wallace and chasing the light at Great Staple Tor.

Remembering Alyn Wallace

We’ve all heard the old phrase “doesn’t time fly” but the older I get the faster it goes because I can’t believe it’s been over two and half years since I last photographed Great Staple Tor. It only seems like yesterday I was wild camping there to try my hand at astrophotography. The fact that I tried it was thanks to the excellent book by Alyn Wallace (who is greatly missed). If you’re not aware of Alyn’s book then I strongly suggest you check out this blog post and see the real world video review I did.

Great Staple Tor is completely the opposite side of Dartmoor to where I live so I don’t make it there as much as I’d like to. However, I found myself with a little more time than normal one Saturday afternoon, so I jumped in the car to made the journey across the moor.

Chasing the Light

At first the weather was looking great. Showers, rainbows, lots of cloud and light dancing across the landscape. Soon though, I was in heavy rain and the likelihood of photographing anything was looking increasingly unlikely. I pulled over and considered turning around and chasing the better conditions I had just driven through. But I checked my weather app, and it assured me that the heavy showers would pass.

Arriving at the carpark for Great Staple Tor I was delighted to see that the forecast was indeed correct. It’s not often that happens but I wasn’t complaining. I was soon making the walk up past Little Staple Tor and onto Great Staple Tor. Things were looking very positive. Clouds in the sky, light across the landscape and the rock stacks (tors) were looking majestic.

Great Staple Tor, Dartmoor National Park, Devon - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 18mm, f/13, 1/6 at ISO 64.

I’ll Just Clone That Out

Dartmoor at the weekend can be a busy place. As the day goes on more people go out to enjoy the moor and good for them. It’s a wonderful place and I encourage everyone to get out there to discover Dartmoor!

At this time of year though, you’ll find less tourists but plenty of younger people out training for the Ten Tors event. There’s no way I would have done something like that at their age, so they have lots of respect from me. January on Dartmoor isn’t exactly forgiving.

Now, this might sound like a complaint, but I can assure it isn’t, but it was frustrating. With the conditions working in my favour for once I was happy. Happy creating dramatic images of Great Staple Tor. After a while three lads turn up and start chatting. No worries, they’ll move on soon and I’ll carry on shooting. But they didn’t. Instead they started to put up two tents right in the middle of my compositions. Just as the light was getting good!

Did I ask them to move? No, I did not! They have every right to be on Dartmoor. Just as much right as I did, and the fact that they very innocently planted a couple of tents where I wanted to photograph was just plain bad luck.

Great Staple Tor, Dartmoor National Park, Devon - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 14mm, f/13, 1/6 at ISO 64.

The good news was that they were relatively small in the frame, so for some of the photographs I just cloned them out. Or dare I say it, I used the AI remove tool in Lightroom! My approach to object removal is that if the offending object is temporary such as a branch, car, human, or even a tent, it is fair game for removal. If it’s something permanent like power cables, buildings, roads, it’s got to stay.

Besides, the arrival of the tents encouraged me to move onto Roos Tor where my interest was reignited for this unusual tor. A return visit there is on my list now! So, thanks lads!

I hope you enjoyed reading about my adventure and seeing the photographs I captured. What would you have done in my situation? Would you have asked the lads to camp a few more meters away? And if not, would you have removed the tent in post processing? Let me know in the comments below.

 

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Bite-Size Blog Post #56 - Black Tor Sunrise - Dartmoor National Park

In this bite sized blog I make the long walk up to Black Tor to see if it’s not too late in the year to photograph it at sunrise.

It’s a Short Window

The walk from Meldon Reservoir car park to Black Tor is one I have taken on many occasions. There are magnificent views along the way and if you include High Willhays on your route you can also claim to be standing on the roof of Devon. For me, the photographic highlight though is Yes Tor, which is not far from High Willhays.

But Black Tor is not to be ignored if you are out with your camera. If you are looking to photograph it during the golden hours, things get a little more tricky though. There is only a small window during the summer when the sun sets in a direction that will illuminate the tor with the best light.

It’s even more challenging to photograph it at sunrise as the surrounding hills can block the light from the rising sun until well past the golden hour. So, for those few weeks either side of the winter solstice I try to make the challenging walk up from the reservoir car park to Black Tor and watch the sunrise.

Black Tor, Dartmoor National Park, Devon - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 15mm, f/13, 1/8 sec at ISO64.

My Only Attempt?

I missed out on photographing sunrise at Black Tor at the end of 2025 because I was delayed in my return from Scotland, and then there was Christmas. I don’t think I took any photos over Christmas!

Roll on 2026 and a late opportunity presented itself and I managed to capture the photographs you see in this blog. I do however think I was a little late in the window of opportunity as it took nearly 20 minutes for the sun to break over the hills, so the light was harsher than I hoped for.

Black Tor, Dartmoor National Park, Devon - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 21mm, f/13, 1/8 sec at ISO64.

One More Try?

I’ve reckon I’ll have one more go at it this weekend. I suspect I’m a bit late now for Black Tor sunrises, and a lot depends on the weather. Even if I do make the early morning walk and I don’t get the shot, it’s a fine way to start the day and I’ll make my walk a little more adventurous by walking up to the roof of Devon.

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Bite-Size Blog Post #55 - Hound Tor - Dartmoor National Park

In this bite sized blog I head to Hound Tor for some daytime photograph!

Creativity After Sunrise

I love the light you get from a rising or setting sun. It’s warm and soft, and it can make the landscape glow. It can also test your commitment during the summer months when sunrise can be 5am and sunset as late as 9pm (at least on Dartmoor anyway). But if you thought these were the only times of day to take photographs you’d be mistaken.

While there’s no doubt that I prefer to shoot during the golden hours, by not taking photographs during the day, you’re missing out on hours and hours of creativity and fun. Admittedly, it can be a little more challenging as shadows are harsher and there more people about, but for those looking for a challenge the results can be rewarding.

A few weeks ago I had a few hours to kill so I took a wander up to Hound Tor. There was little cloud in the sky, the landscape was very contrasty, and I had to pick my out my compositions carefully. Aside from negotiating a busy location (Hound Tor is very popular with visitors), I had to look for compositions where strong areas of light and shadow would work.

When I found my composition, I knew it was going to be black and white, so I set my Nikon Z8 to Deep Tone Monochrome and got to work. This is the resulting image.

Houndtor, Dartmoor, Devon - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 18mm, f/13, 1/100 sec at ISO 640.

I didn’t find much else to photograph that morning, but it did remind me of what an interesting location Hound Tor is to photograph. It’s a location that works well when I teach photographers about photographing Dartmoor.

I’m looking forward to going back. Not just at the golden hours, but during the day. As I looked about, I could see how the angle of the light would change during the day, opening up a new compositions. I can’t wait to see what I find.

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A Glorious Morning at Great Links Tor - Dartmoor National Park

A photograph of Great Links Tor in the glorious morning light has eluded me for years but no longer thanks to this photograph.  But why am I a tiny bit disappointed?

I Got the Shot, But I'm Slightly Disappointed! 

Great Links Tor on Dartmoor is a hard location to photograph for a couple reasons.  Firstly, it involves a strenuous walk with over 300 meters of ascent.  I can make the walk in about 40 minutes, but with a heavy backpack of camera gear on my back, I can really feel it.  Especially when it's a dawn shoot and I haven't quite left enough time to get to the summit with time to spare. 

The other challenge is the weather.  Great Links Tor sits at an altitude of 586 meters which makes predicting the weather a proper challenge.  The weather at the start point of the walk can be very different than the weather at the top.  I've often made the ascent in clear weather only to find Great Links Tor covered in cloud.  You can check the weather forecast as much as you like, but sometimes you have to take a chance and go for it.   

And go for it I do.  Despite the 1.5 hr round trip in the car, and the 7 km walk, I still feel compelled to take a chance on the hope I will get a compelling photograph that will show how majestic Great Links Tor can be. 

The risk has paid off though.  Back in April 2023 I walked up to Great Links Tor for a sunset shot and while my patience was tested, it ultimately paid off with one of my favourite Dartmoor photographs.  You can watch me capture that photograph in this blog post.  

But with a great sunset photograph of Great Links Tor in my portfolio I craved a sunrise photograph to go with it.  And so started my slight obsession with getting up early, and walking up to Great Links Tor in the dark.   Prior to writing this blog post I had tried to capture a sunrise photograph of Great Links Tor that I am happy with several times.  While each visit yielded a good photograph, I knew in different conditions I could capture something special. 

Just to make things a little complicated, the photograph I wanted can only be captured during winter when the sunrises from a specific direction.  This puts the pressure on! 

As winter 2025 came round I was determined to try again and make what I expected to be multiple trips to Great Links Tor.  I also thought this might make an interesting video story.  How many ascents would I need to make?  What would the conditions of each visit be?  How frustrated would I get?   

Well imagine my surprise when on my first winter 2025 ascent I get exactly the shot I was looking for.  Setting off early in the morning, it was far from guaranteed that I would get the shot.  The forecast was for clear blue skies which rarely makes for good landscape photographs.  Arriving in the car park there were already a couple of vans parked up.  This is often a sign that there are wild campers on the moor, and I have made the ascent to Great Links Tor before only to find a tent right in the middle of my favourite composition. 

Sure enough, when I arrived there were wild campers there but fortunately well away from my composition.  The camper was already awake when I arrived, and I enjoyed a very nice chat to him.  But in the corner of my vision, I was keeping an eye on the conditions which were surprisingly looking very interesting.  Despite much of the sky being clear there was some cloud above Great Links Tor and as soon as the sun rose above the horizon and lit the scene, I stopped chatting and got shooting! 

This is the photograph I captured.   

Sunrise at Great Links Tor, Dartmoor National Park, Devon - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4S at 14mm, f/13, 0.5 sec at ISO 64.

So why am I disappointed?  It has nothing to do with the photograph.  I'm really happy with it.  I'm disappointed as I won't be producing a video documenting my repeated visits to Great Links Tor in search of my photograph!  I mustn't complain as I felt really happy as I descended from Great Links Tor.  I know I had a good shot in the bag. 

So, is that me done with Great Links Tor?  Of course not.  There is always a different and possibly better photograph to be captured.  It's just that I won't spend the winter focusing on when I will next go to Great Links Tor.  I'm free to explore and discover some of Dartmoor's other winter locations.  So make sure you sign up to my newsletter to find out where I go and what I photograph next.

 

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Bite-Size Blog Post #50 - Vixen Tor - Dartmoor

Despite Vixen Tor being very much out of bounds and on private land, there are still some wonderful viewpoints to photograph.

One is Not Welcome! 

If you've watched my free watch video series Discovering Dartmoor, you'll know that in episode five I visited Vixen Tor.  Well, I say visited, you can't actually visit Vixen Tor as it is on private land and access is prohibited.  It's not even a tor you can go and sneakily access as it's surrounded by a stone wall and barbed wire!   

However, that doesn't mean you can't photograph it.  It just means you have to be a little further back and capture the tor as part of the wider landscape.  That was exactly the approach I took when I filmed there for Discovering Dartmoor and as result of being forced to look beyond the tor, I discovered a wonderful panoramic view.  Ever since that afternoon I've been eager to get back. 

With me living east of Dartmoor and Vixen Tor being location the Western Edge, getting there always takes a little more effort but given that it's only a short walk from the road, I really should go there more often!  However, for whatever reason I only recently returned to Vixen Tor to see if I could improve on the panoramic image that I captured during Discovering Dartmoor.   

My hopes were high when I looked over to Vixen Tor one afternoon recently.  It was near perfect conditions.  The light was warm and soft, the trees were displaying their autumn colours, and the wind was light.  Oh, and no sheep to spoil the composition!  However, while there were great clouds in the sky, some of them looking very moody, there was an annoying gap between the horizon where the tor sat and dramatic clouds above.  It was unfortunately a large gap somewhat making it difficult to create a balanced composition. 

Vixen Tor Panorama, Dartmoor National Park - Nikon Z8, Nikkor Z 24-12-mm f/4 S at 54mm, f/8, 1/60 sect at ISO 200, 9 image stitched panoramic.

Not to be put off by a lack of clouds I tried to make the most of the scene by placing the tor and the surrounding landscape much lower in the frame so I could include a little of the moody sky.  Has it worked?  I'm not 100% convinced, but the more time I spend the more I grow to like the photographs, and they represent the wonderful the view I experienced that afternoon, and it has inspired me to return again very soon! 

Vixen Tor, Dartmoor National Park - Nikon Z8, Nikkor Z 24-12-mm f/4 S at 69mm, f/13, 1/13 sect at ISO 64..

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Bite-Size Blog Post #49 - Sharpitor - Dartmoor

Despite it's near roadside location, the view from Sharpitor on the western edge of Dartmoor is something I'd not experienced before but when I found myself driving by one day, I just had to pull over and take a look.

Drive By Landscape Photography

Over my 10 plus years of photographing Dartmoor there still remain locations that I haven't photographed.  That's hardly a surprise when Dartmoor is over 365 square miles in size!  Some of these locations are remote or require additional effort to get to, but there are locations that are close to the road that I just haven’t visited yet.   

Nestled on the western edge of Dartmoor, Sharpitor is one such location.  It’s on the main road between Yelverton and Princetown, and there is a very convenient car park which only leaves you roughly a 15 minute walk up a gentle slope.  So why have I never photographed this easily accessible tor before?  Honestly, I don't know.  It's not I wasn't aware of it, I guess just never got around to getting there. 

That was until a few weeks ago!  I was spending the day volunteering with the Dartmoor Preservation Association helping them to clear gorse from an area of land they own called High House Waste.    It's not the type of work I'm used but I found it to be highly satisfying! 

It was on my way home from my volunteering day that I found myself passing Sharpitor, so I pulled over, grabbed my camera and headed up the hill.   Here's what I captured. 

Sharpitor #5, Dartmoor National Park - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f4 S at 19mm, f/13, 1/20 sec at ISO 64.

I needed to get back home so I wasn't able to wait for the light to soften at sunset but even so, the light on Dartmoor was lovely.  Sharpitor itself isn't that interesting but it does offer some compelling foregrounds that help frame the more distant Leather Tor and surrounding hills.  Now that I've been, it's definitely a location I'll be returning to!

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Can You Go Green and Still Get the Shot? Part 1 - Photographing Dartmoor by Train - Ditching the Car

Most of use a car to get to the locations that we want to photograph, but is it possible to go greener and use public transport?  In this video I ditch the car and take the train to #Dartmoor.  Will this save the planet or is it just too impractical?

Can I Make my Landscape Photography Greener?

Being outdoors with your camera seems to be an eco-friendly activity, doesn't it?  But if you scratch under the surface, you'll find that the environmental impact of landscape photograph is a complex issue.  To understand that impact you need to look at various factors including travel, camera gear, power & charging, and environmental footprint. 

What I'm not going to do in this video and blog post is address these issues in full and provide solutions.  And I'm certainly in no position to lecture anyone on the environmental impact that their photography may have.

But what I would like to do is to see if there are some small changes I can make that might reduce the overall environmental impact of my landscape photography.  One of the most obvious factors that I can look to change is how I travel.  Virtually all my landscape photography involves travelling by car.  Even a trip to Dartmoor can involve a 50-mile round trip.

But what if there was an option for me to get public transport to Dartmoor.  Well, back in 2021 the Dartmoor Line which runs between Exeter and Okehampton reopened, and ever since trains started running again, I've been itching to give it a try. 

Could this train service become a regular form of transport for me and my landscape photograph?  Let's find out in the video below.

Belstone Tor Landscape Photographs

Here are the photographs you saw me capture in the video.

Belstone Tor #1, Dartmoor National Park - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 18mm, f/11, 1/25 sec at ISO 64.

Belstone Tor #3, Dartmoor National Park - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 18mm, f/13, 1/20 sec at ISO 64.

Belstone Tor #4, Dartmoor National Park - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 20mm, f/13, 1/20 sec at ISO 64.

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The Dance of Light and Shadow - How Black and White is Changing My Landscape Photography - Part 1

What’s the point in creating black and white landscape photographs?  Is it just a last-ditch attempt to rescue a poor photograph?  In this video I tell you why I’m now using black and white and with intent.  Join me on #Dartmoor to find out more.

Dartmoor - A Land of Light and Shadow

It's funny, but probably not wholly unexpected, that the more experience you gain with landscape photography the more likely it is that your photography tastes will change over time.  And this is what has happened to me.  Kind of.

I say kind of because the style of landscape photographs that I like to capture hasn't changed.  I still take natural looking photographs with minimal editing, using a wide-angle lens, and with lots of contrast and colour.  It's just that now I'm happy to occasionally drop the colour element and work in black and white.

Capturing black and white landscape photographs is nothing new, and there are plenty of great photographers capturing black and white images of Dartmoor, but for me it's a style of landscape photography I'm getting increasingly comfortable with.

In the video below I talk more about my adoption of black and white landscape photography, how the Nikon Z8 is helping me, and I do it all from the land of light and shadow, Dartmoor. 

Enjoy and let me know in the comments below your experience of black and white landscape photography.

Yes Tor Photography Gallery

Here are the photographs you saw me capture in the video.

Yes Tor #1, Dartmoor National Park - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 17mm, f/13, 1/13 sec at ISO 64.

Yes Tor #2, Dartmoor National Park - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 14mm, f/13, 1/13 sec at ISO 64.

Yes Tor #3, Dartmoor National Park - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 18mm, f/13, 1/13 sec at ISO 64.

Yes Tor #4, Dartmoor National Park - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 23mm, f/13, 1/13 sec at ISO 64.

Yes Tor #5, Dartmoor National Park - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 30mm, f/13, 1/6 sec at ISO 64.

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How Early Would You Get Up to Capture a Landscape Photograph?

Early morning for sunrise or late evening for sunset?  Which type of landscape photographer are you?  In this video I explain why I’m happy to set my alarm for 03:30 so I can see the sunrise at Bowerman’s Nose on Dartmoor.

 

Why Such an Early Start Just to Capture a Photo

There’s early starts, and then there are EARLY starts. Here in the south west of the UK during late spring and early summer when we approach the longest day, sunrise is as early as 5am and sunset after 9:30pm.  (It’s even earlier and later in Scotland!). With those times I expect most of you are thinking that if you had the choice of sunrise or sunset photography, you would almost certainly pick a sunset shoot.

It appears I am a wired a little differently. I actually like getting up early in the morning. But 03:30? That seems a little too much effort, and in most circumstances you’d be right. It would be much easier to give up on sunrise landscape photography until late summer or early autumn.

However, there are some photographs that can only be captured at certain times of year, and sunrise at Bowerman’s Nose is one such photograph. As it’s such an beautiful location in spring, and you get a very different angle at that time of year, it’s one location I will happily set my alarm for 03:30. But, as I discuss in this video, it’s not just landscape photography that inspires me to get up that early. 

Landscape Photographs of Bowerman’s Nose on Dartmoor National Park

Bowerman’s Nose at Sunrise #2, Dartmoor National Park - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 20mm, f/13, 1/8 sec at ISO 800.

Bowerman’s Nose at Sunrise #3, Dartmoor National Park - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 21mm, f/13, 1/8 sec at ISO 800.

Bowerman’s Nose at Sunrise #4, Dartmoor National Park - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 20mm, f/13, 1/8 sec at ISO 250.

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I Shouldn't Have Been Surprised - A 5 Minute Photo Adventure from Rippon Tor on Dartmoor

With little chance of capturing a compelling landscape photograph and filming a video that will likely never get published, I was ready to go home.  But never right off Dartmoor.  Dramatic conditions can be just a moment away.

That Was Truly Unexpected 

The best time to make decision on where to photograph sunrise on Dartmoor is the night before.  I like to make my choice, go to sleep, get up the following morning, grab my bag and a coffee then just go for it.  Trying to make location decisions at 5am will lead to procrastination or worse, talking myself out of it and going back to bed (which is very rare). 

However, sometimes it's worth just a quick scan of the weather forecast when I wake up, and the morning of this adventure, I'm glad I did.  My original location on the western edge of Dartmoor had clouded over earlier than expected and so I needed a quick change of plan.  The cloud was coming in from the west, so there was a chance that I might get a break in the cloud cover if I headed to the eastern edge of Dartmoor.  With no time to consider a list of a possible locations I opted for one where I knew I'd stand the best chance of benefiting from a break in the cloud, and that was Rippon Tor. 

As I drove along the M5 I could see it was looking a lot clearer towards the coast and I did consider making a very last minute change and heading to Dawlish Warren beach, but decided against it and thought it was best to stick to Dartmoor.  

As I walked up to the summit of Rippon Tor, I thought I had made a mistake.  It was very cloudy and the chances of seeing the sun looked very slim.  As I was there I though, I might as well get my camera out.  While the photographs I was taken were compositionally sound, they lacked the contrast and depth that the morning light would give them.  They all looked a bit grey and flat. 

Despite the flat light, I decided to start filming a video for YouTube.  I honestly thought the video would never see the light of day, but after a 6 month break from making videos, this would at least be good practice and help me get back into the flow.  What happened next was a surprise.  It shouldn't have been.  This is Dartmoor after all.


Unexpected Light on Rippon Tor - Dartmoor

Here’s the photo you saw me capture in the video:

Unexepected Light on Rippon Tor, Dartmoor National Park, Devon - Nikon Z8 with Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 22mm, f/14, 1/3 sec at ISO 64.

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West Mill Tor on Dartmoor - A 5 Minute Photo Adventure

In this 5 Minute Photo Adventure I head to West Mill Tor where I find one of the most interesting clouds I think I’ve ever seen in the skies above Dartmoor.

Clouds - Sometimes You Only Need One 

For me, the inclusion of a tor in one of my Dartmoor landscape photographs is one of the most important elements I can include in my compositions.  While the foreground is critically important, it doesn't mean I dismiss what the sky is adding to my photographs.   However, more often than not it's clear blue or flat grey skies on Dartmoor.  Occasionally, these types of sky can be used effectively in compositions, but I much prefer a sky of broken clouds.  This allows light to break through to the ground as well as providing visual interest to the composition. 

A forecast of clear blue skies will normally be enough to put me off getting up very early in the morning to capture sunrise, but everyone now and again I'm willing to risk it just so I have the pleasure of getting out with my camera to watch the start of a new day. 

This is exactly the attitude that got me to West Mill Tor one morning.  It was forecast for blue skies and high winds, but I just wanted to get out and sometimes the conditions can be surprising and lead to interesting photographs. 

When I arrived at West Mill Tor it was indeed very windy and the skies clear.  Well, the skies were almost clear.  There was one cloud in the sky, and it was a belter.  It was the type of cloud that I don't think I've ever seen over Dartmoor before, and I therefore had to try and include it in my photographs.  It was in an awkward position in the sky which limited my compositions, but I wasn't going to miss photographing it. 

Was it worth sacrificing a better composition just to photograph a cloud?  Judge for yourself in the 5 Minute Photo Adventure I made that morning.  Enjoy!

West Mill Tor - Dartmoor Landscape Photographs

Here are the photographs of West Mill Tor that you saw in the video.

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The 400th Blog Post - I'm Back on YouTube - Oke Tor, Dartmoor

That's right, I'm back on YouTube and giving my channel a reboot!  In this first video of a packed schedule of upcoming videos, I visit Oke Tor on Dartmoor to capture some landscape photographs.  I also talk about where I've been and more importantly, what I've got coming in the channel over the next few months.

I’m Back on YouTube!

The last time I shared a video on YouTube was back in August 2024 when I published the last episode of Discovering Dartmoor. If you are a regular visitor to my website, you know that the lack of videos didn’t mean a lack of photography though. Far from it. The Exposed Blog has been kept well up to date with all my photography adventures. So much so that I’m extremely proud to announce that this is my 400th blog post! When I started the blog back in 2016, I never thought I’d get to 400 posts but one thing I am confident of now is that I will definitely get to 500!

In my first video back, I keep things fairly simple. I head out to Oke Tor on photograph sunset over Dartmoor, and I talk a little bit about where I’ve been and more importantly what I’ve coming up in the channel over the next few months. Enjoy!

Oke Tor, Dartmoor

Here are the landscape photographs you saw me capture in the video,

Oke Tor #1, Dartmoor National Park - Nikon Z8, Nikkor Z 14-30 f/4 S at 14mm, f/13, 1/5 sec at ISO 64.

Oke Tor #2, Dartmoor National Park - Nikon Z8, Nikkor Z 14-30 f/4 S at 16mm, f/13, 1/5 sec at ISO 64.

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My Favourite Landscape Photograph of 2024 - Bowerman's Nose, Dartmoor

This week's blog covers my favourite photo from 2024: Bowerman's Nose on Dartmoor. It might be one of my best shots of Dartmoor. 

An Iconic Dartmoor Location

Looking at my Free Landscape Photography Locations Map, I can see that I have published photographs of Bowerman’s Nose on this blog 14 times. Even if you don’t include the visits where I haven’t created a video or blog post, it’s fair to say that I’ve spent a lot of time at Bowerman’s Nose.

But why would I keep returning to this location? For me at least, it’s one of Dartmoor’s most iconic locations. Dartmoor National Park is covered in beautiful tors, with each one having its own characteristics and geology. But Bowerman’s Nose is unique, in at least as far as I’m aware, it’s the only tor comprised of a single stack of rock over 6 m tall. It protrudes out of the land and stands out against the rest of the landscape.

Its unique shape isn’t it’s only draw. To the east of Bowerman’s Nose is a hill, but in all other directions the view opens and on a good day you can see for miles. The view to the west of Hamel Down and Easdon Down is particularly beautiful. It’s a location that contains almost everything you want from a Dartmoor scene.

However, after more than 14 visits you would have thought I’d have all the photographs I’d want of Bowerman’s Nose. While I have captured many nice photographs of Bowerman’s Nose, I’d always felt I could get a better composition, and with better light and more drama. Something that captured the essence of this iconic Dartmoor location.

What Makes this Photograph So Special?

Photography is hugely subjective. What I find appealing in a photograph could be the opposite of what you think. So, when I say this is photograph is special, it’s special to me. But hopefully you’ll like it too!

For me, the photograph in this blog post is not only the best photograph I have taken of Bowerman’s Nose, but it’s also my favourite photograph that I captured in 2024, and it’s one of the best photographs of Dartmoor National Park I think I’ve ever captured. Let me explain why.

An Autumnal Sunset at Bowerman's Nose, Dartmoor National Park, Devon - Nikon Z8, Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 24mm, f/13, 1/20 sec at ISO 800.

I’ll split the photo up into three layers, foreground, midground and background. All three layers add something to the photograph. In the foreground the striking rusty brown autumnal colours of the bracken create a slight V-shape at the bottom of the composition. This helps to frame the lower part of the image, stopping the eye from wandering out of the photograph. There is the tiniest bit of movement in some of the bracken, but it’s not a distraction and movement is very much a part of most the Dartmoor landscape!

Moving through from the foreground to the midground, the rocks and the undulating ground have caught the soft light from the setting sun off to the left. This not only adds warmth to the foreground, but it also adds contrast and depth. These qualities continue with Bowerman’s Nose itself. As dramatic as this tor is, it still looks like a lump of grey granite in flat light. The light hitting the left side brings to tor to life and you can more clearly see its lines, layers and shape.

Moving to the background, with the rolling hills of Dartmoor and a dramatic sky. While there isn’t any dappled light on the hills, this does help the tor that does have light on it, stand out further from the background. But the star of the show for the background is the sky. I’ve been craving for a sky like that in my previous Bowerman’s Nose photos. For me, the sky is perfect balance between colour and cloud. The heavier, darker clouds at the top create a frame for the top of composition and add a bit of drama. But there is also a small gap on the horizon where there is a small patch of blue sky and some of clouds are being lit by the setting sun. I find this balance very pleasing.

Putting all those three layers together delivers what I consider to be a classic Dartmoor landscape photograph. There’s light, colour, drama, texture, nature and an odd shaped bit of granite! No one element dominates the other.

Planning and Preparation

With all that I’ve said you would expect me to tell you that this photograph is one that came about because of planning and preparation. Well, this photograph was unplanned and my expectations that afternoon were low. I knew the sun was setting in a favourable direction, and the weather forecast was OK, but I’d never photographed Bowerman’s Nose in November, so I wasn’t sure what to expect.

When I arrived, I started photographing the compositions that I’d shot lots of times before, but they just weren’t exciting me. Neither was the weather. It all felt a bit repetitive and with no exciting light I thought about going home. But I decided that would be a waste of time and that I should use the time to explore and find new compositions.

You might now expect me to tell you that when I found this composition I was immediately taken with it. But I wasn’t. I don’t even remember being that excited about the picture when I took it. It wasn’t until I got home, and I saw the photograph on my screen that it stood out and I thought I really had something. After editing, the photograph came to life and the more I looked at it, the more I loved it. By the time I had made a print of it, I knew I had something very special.

I don’t often write about my photographs like this. This is because I don’t capture images like this all the time. Which makes it even more special when I do. I just hope I don’t have to wait too long to feel this way again. 

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Bite-Size Blog Post #43 - Belstone Common - Dartmoor National Park

In this blog post I share with you some of the photographs I captured from the recent snowfall on Dartmoor, and I discuss some of the compositional challenges when there is "too much snow". 

A Reminder of the Dangers of Driving in the Snow

I recently wrote in blog about how I photographed Dartmoor in the snow over a period of three days.  We are lucky to get one day of snow on Dartmoor before it clears, so I felt fortunate to get out with my camera three times over three days.  Aside from a tricky exit from one car park, driving around Dartmoor in the snowy conditions wasn't too bad and it gave me a bit of confidence to try it again should there be another snowfall. 

As if luck was on my side, it was early on in January when Dartmoor experienced another dumping of snow.  Eager to get out there and add to my library of snowy Dartmoor pictures I ventured out in the car to photograph the area around Row Tor in the Okehampton military zone.  The driving conditions on the main roads weren't too bad, but as always, a little extra caution was called for. 

All was going well until I started heading up Station Road in Okehampton where there is less traffic and steeper roads.  There was clearly ice and snow on the road, but I was feeling bold, and I was eager to capture some photos, so I kept going.  Station Road soon turned into Tors Road, and this is where things got tricky.  Tors Road is particularly steep in places, and with very little traffic on that road (and certainly no gritting trucks), I found my car sliding on the ice. 

I thought I might be able to make it to the boundary of the military camp, but even if I did, coming back down would be horrible.  With the likelihood of the car sliding even under gentle braking, I really didn't fancy descending Tors Road and then sliding into something and damaging my car or someone else's property.  So, I made a very careful three point turn and slowly descended back into Okehampton.  It was a sensible decision. 

However, I didn't want to just give up on my desire to capture photographs that morning.  With sunrise getting ever closer there was only one place that I thought I could get a car close enough to and that was Belstone. 

I had to drive carefully up the country lane to Belstone, but it was passable.  I did the sensible thing and parked in the main car park and started the walk up to Belstone Common.  It was a beautiful morning and Belstone village looked like a winter picture post card.  Up on the moor the walking was hard going as the snow was deep.  I was glad I was wearing my Muck Boot Artic Sport wellies! 

Too Much Snow for Belstone?

A Snowy Belstone Tor #1, Dartmoor National Park, Devon - Nikon Z8, Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 19mm, f/13, 1/15 sec at ISO64

I was surprised to see a few folk up on Belstone at that time of morning, especially with so much snow.  My first concern was that they might have already walked through the snow and left foot prints but fortunately for me this wasn’t the case. 

Belstone is a place I have photographed numerous times of the years, and I have compositions I know work well.  However, as pretty as the snow was, there was more there that I'd ever experienced on Dartmoor and its presence considerably change the look of the location.  Compositions featuring my favourite rock formations lost a lot of their definition under a blanket of snow.  Don't get me wrong, the snow looked beautiful and some of the patterns that the wind had shaped the snow into looked amazing.  But it was hard work finding compositions. 

A Snowy Belstone Tor #2, Dartmoor National Park, Devon - Nikon Z8, Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 18mm, f/13, 1/30 sec at ISO64

Another challenge was the mostly clear blue sky.  With a very white foreground and a blue sky, I felt the scene lacked interest or drama.  It was certainly wonderful to look at, but that doesn't always make for a compelling photograph. 

While I am often critical of my photographs because I either should have composed them better or the conditions weren't right, the one thing I always do is enjoy my time while I'm out with the camera and I most certainly enjoyed my morning on Belstone Common.  Watching the sunrise over the rolling hills of a snowy Dartmoor was a joyous experience and one that I would happily do again.   

A SNowy Irishman’s Wall, Dartmoor National Park, Devon - Nikon Z8, Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S at 26mm, f/13, 1/20 sec at ISO64

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